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We have all heard of emeralds- that rich green gem that has its own unique allure, but how much do you actually know about May’s birthstone? This month in Diamondport’s birthstone blog we take a closer look at the different emerald types, history, lore and tips for purchasing a beautiful piece that suits your taste and budget.
Emerald is May’s birthstone and belongs to the Beryl family – the same group of gemstones as aquamarine, morganite and heliodor, although emerald is by far the best known.
They are known for their captivating green hue which is caused by chromium (or sometimes vanadium) in the beryllium aluminum silicate crystal structure.
Emeralds are often highly included due to their growth formation where gases, liquids and other minerals become trapped. Normally inclusions devalue gemstones, but in the case of emeralds these inclusions often enhance the the value of the stone; in fact an emerald with no inclusions is generally treated with skepticism as they are so rare.
Jardin is the French word for garden. In emeralds jardin refers to the desirable network of moss or garden-like inclusions mentioned above that are seen across an emerald. Every emerald has a different jardin, which adds to the story of the stone.
Emeralds are found worldwide, with the most famous deposits occurring in Colombia, with the Muzo mine producing emeralds of the finest quality in the world. Brazil and Zambia also have large deposits, with smaller mining ventures also found in Afghanistan and Pakistan.
In recent years there’s been a shift in the jewellery market where jewellers and clients are opting for Zambian emeralds over Columbian Emeralds due to their value and different character. Zambian emeralds are often more stable with fewer inclusions; are a deeper bluish-green gem and are a much more affordable price. They don’t have that perceived prestige and rich history of the Columbian emeralds as mining only started in the 1970s, whereas Colombian emeralds have been mined since ancient times.
Torrington emeralds are found in Australia in Torrington, NSW, as well as surrounding areas. They are well known for their unique striped appearance, and lighter blue-green colour. They are generally only found in small sizes, with most not being of gem quality, leading to a failed commercial mining venture in the 1990s. Today the site is not accessible, so any good quality or larger Torrington emeralds that come into the market are highly sought after.
Emeralds have a rich history. Emerald mines were first recorded in Ancient Egypt in 330BC. Cleopatra was known to have loved emeralds, and as such used it often in her royal jewellery.
It wasn’t until the 1700s that the South American emerald mines were captured by the Spanish, eventually resulting in the gemstone becoming popular in European circles.
The most valuable shipwreck ever found was a Spanish galleon that sunk in 1622 called Nuestra Senora de Atocha. It was bound for Europe with at least 2,000 Colombian emeralds and 40 tonnes of gold and silver. Today the estimated worth of the load aboard the vessel is over $1 billion dollars USD.
The Ancient Egyptians believed that emeralds represented fertility and rebirth, as well as having the ability to cure eye ailments. Many cultures believed that emeralds bought riches and power to their wearers, making them popular for royalty.Â
Emerald is also the stone chosen to celebrate the 55th wedding anniversary.
The majority of emeralds (an estimated 99%) are treated to reduce the visual affects of inclusions and increase clarity. This is commonly called ‘oiling’. As this is a common, and well known treatment it is accepted in the industry as long as it is disclosed. It is important to know if your emerald has been oiled, as over time it may require maintenance (reoiling), and must be treated with care when it comes to cleaning.
Some stones are treated with resins or waxes to improve clarity; resin has the advantage of lasting longer than oiling, but cannot be removed and refreshed in the same way oil can be. Some low quality stones are also colour enhanced by adding a green colouring to these fillings, which is frowned upon unless disclosed to the customer.
Synthetic emeralds are also available on the market and do have their place for those wanting a large, top colour and clarity emerald without the huge price tag. They are chemically the same as a natural emerald, but are grown in a lab. This means colour, clarity and size can often be controlled. They are also formed in a matter of months rather than millions of years.
In the end you want a stone that speaks to you – as long as it is stable and you are aware of any treatments, the main thing is that you love it.
Emeralds are a softer stone; 7.5-8 on the Mohs scale, and along with their inclusions are more susceptible to fracturing and chipping than other stones of similar hardness. It is important to consider the setting type when designing a piece of emerald birthstone jewellery.
It is ideally not a stone you would wear daily, but certain things can be done to mitigate the risk of damage long term. Setting style plays a big role in emerald rings- protecting the edges of the emerald is paramount, so a bezel setting is always recommended as the metal will take any hard knocks rather than the stone. Claws can be used, but having a halo around the stone or it being set low to the finger are important features to have.
Another way to further protect your emerald jewellery is to consider the cut of the stone. The areas most likely to chip or break on an emerald are the corners, hence a cutting style was developed that removed these corners entirely. The ’emerald cut’ has since become popular in diamonds for its sleek lines and mirror-like finish.
As most emeralds have some form of clarity enhancement, it is important to not use chemicals or ultrasonic cleaners as the oils may leach from the stone or become discoloured. Further more, the sonic waves from the ultrasonic may increase fractures.
The best way to look after your emerald is to clean it using warm water with some gentle dishwashing liquid and a soft brush. If you’re ever unsure how to go about cleaning your emerald jewellery it is best to contact professionals. At Diamondport we can give advice upon seeing a piece of jewellery on the best way to restore its shine.
Yes, at Diamondport Jewellers we specialise in producing custom engagement rings, and have made some beautiful emerald engagement rings in the past. We offer private consultations, and have many Australian suppliers that we can source emeralds from for you to view in person to select from. We look forward to working with you to come up with your dream piece.
